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Clifford Concept 300


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#1 DeeTurbo

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 19:43

Hi all,

 

This evening I seem to have got an issue with the immobiliser on my car.

 

It seems it won't deactivate. I thought it might be the fob so got the spare out and still no joy, I've even tried changing the batteries but still nothing. 

 

The alarm won't activate and seems like I can't do anything with it. I tried disconnecting the car battery, big mistake as the alarm now sounds but the back up battery in siren is dead so once I disconnect the car battery the siren stops.

 

I'm thinking I now have two options;

 

One remove the alarm totally and connect back all the cables cut when the installation was done?

 

Two try and get a replacement control unit if these are still available?

 

Is there any other options I've not thought about?

 

I'm thinking of trying the little push button thing but it's a bit late for sirens going off so might try that tomorrow but I think the control unit is dead as I have nothing on the LED or flashers.



#2 jexdirectedtech

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 20:13

Its unlikely to have just died.

Pop open the remote, and take a photo of the battery retaining clip, and post it here.

I will make a fairly sizeable bet I know whats wrong :)


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#3 frostbite

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 20:31

I had the concept 650 mk2, that eventually stopped responding had it disconnected by the AA. the bloke said the installer hacked the loom the pieces and he had to call a mate that used to build the mk4 astra's to help him.

 

Anyhoo, when I told my mate who got it installed on his car at the same time, he said he had a problem with his and it was a reciever that was placed on the steering column that had come loose, once I had it bypassed I didnt bother to check it was true or not.

 

With regards to the fob has it been dropped/ stood on?


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#4 DeeTurbo

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 20:49

Its unlikely to have just died.
Pop open the remote, and take a photo of the battery retaining clip, and post it here.
I will make a fairly sizeable bet I know whats wrong :)

 

 
I did think it might have been a dry joint on the battery clip/holder connection but they are good on both fobs.
 

I had the concept 650 mk2, that eventually stopped responding had it disconnected by the AA. the bloke said the installer hacked the loom the pieces and he had to call a mate that used to build the mk4 astra's to help him.
 
Anyhoo, when I told my mate who got it installed on his car at the same time, he said he had a problem with his and it was a reciever that was placed on the steering column that had come loose, once I had it bypassed I didnt bother to check it was true or not.
 
With regards to the fob has it been dropped/ stood on?

 
They guy that installed it didn't do the best job on mine but it installed in 2003 I think so it lasted a while.
 
I've noticed the LED isn't working at all either.

Strange photos haven't shown up.

 

Photos now working.


Edited by DeeTurbo, 08 May 2018 - 20:58.


#5 DeeTurbo

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 21:01

I keep the second fob hidden in the car.

 

I started doing this after the battery clip broke on a fob once, I used to keep a spare battery but with the clip broken it was no good.

 

It's strange both fobs to go at the same time.

 

I drove the car home after work, had some dinner and then went to go shops and that's when I had the issue. Good job I wasn't at the shops when it failed.


Edited by DeeTurbo, 08 May 2018 - 21:02.


#6 jexdirectedtech

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 21:11

need to see the side of the clip.
If the LED in the car is not lit either, then you have either blown the 12v feed to the unit, or you have a flat battery.

This is all assuming you are using the car regularly, and the unit hasnt gone to sleep.


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#7 DeeTurbo

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 21:37

Is that a better photo? 

 

The siren sounded after I disconnecting the car battery and connected it again so would that mean the supply fuse would be ok?

 

The back up battery in the siren is dead so doesn't sound when i disconnected the car battery. 

Attached Files


Edited by DeeTurbo, 08 May 2018 - 21:53.


#8 DeeTurbo

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 21:50

This might be better.

Attached Files


Edited by DeeTurbo, 08 May 2018 - 21:51.


#9 jexdirectedtech

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Posted 09 May 2018 - 08:57

Still cant tell from that pic - are both sides of the battery clip, flush to the board?

Fuse does sound ok based on what you said.


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#10 DeeTurbo

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Posted 09 May 2018 - 18:30

They're not raised but I'll re solder them but it's strange both fobs going faulty at the same time.

 

If I unplug the siren from the control module and if I enter the code via the little two button wired pad should the module unlock the immobiliser?

 

I'm going away for a few days now but I'll be getting the trim off and getting access to the module.



#11 frostbite

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Posted 10 May 2018 - 11:58

If it’s like the blackjax on the 650 then it should disable the immobiliser.

 

I can’t remember if you had to program it to do that before though 


Roanapur is an old Thai port in southern Thailand, where the deserters of the Vietnam war took refuge and were joined by the worst villains and criminals of the world.

Prostitutes, drug-addicts, mercenaries, killers and psychopaths of any nationalities compose the population of Roanapur.

 

 


#12 DeeTurbo

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Posted 15 May 2018 - 21:40

Hi all,

 

Just a quick update to say the system is now fixed.

 

I tried to put the system in valet mode via the little two button pad. Many years ago I removed the pad from the dash and put it behind a panel.

 

The LED on the dash didn't flash but the indicators on the instrument panel did and the ignition came on.

 

So know I knew the system was still working, well sort of.

 

Next, I made sure it was in Valet mode, disconnected the battery and then tried unplugging reconnected the plugs on the control unit. When I connected the battery back up the fobs started working back to normal.

 

I'm thinking there might have been some corrosion on some of the pins on the cable that goes to the aerial and the action of removing the plugs and connecting them again must have cleaned the pins.

 

The next job I need to do is find out if it's the LED that has gone faulty or the driver in the control module.

 

I then have to move the proximity sensor to up in the head lining as I heard that the best place, the installer had put it under the hand brake and I get false alarms because of that.

 

Any idea how difficult it is to replace the backup battery in the siren?

 



#13 jexdirectedtech

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 08:11

Just buy a new siren on Ebay. Much easier.

Once those things are open, they are rarely waterproof again.


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#14 DeeTurbo

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 11:44

Thanks for the info, I'll take a look.

 

Would you think the LED is more likely to be faulty over the control?



#15 jexdirectedtech

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 13:59

On those, it could be either/or/both.

The LED is run on a ULN3002 driver chip on the main board. So try a new LED, or better still, get a meter and see if you are getting power.

If it is the driver chip, they are not on sockets, so you will need to cut out the old one, and solder in a replacement.


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