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I built a 3D printer, so I could make these!


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#1 El Bambino

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Posted 25 Aug 2017 - 16:29

Hi guys,

How y'all doing?

So I made a thread a while back about making a new pair of speakers using cnc cut panels, after getting frustrated with cnc operators that failed to understand my drawings or charging insane amounts of money I looked into building my own CNC, I quickly found out that they work just like scaled up 3D printers, so I got a 3D printer DIY kit to learn what I needed to do, and I had some Mark Audio drivers I bought off Mark himself at a recent hi-fi show that needed using.

Sooooo,

My new mini monitors are well on their way :D

It's a 9 litre ported design for a single pluvia 7 driver,

3 parts, printed with 5mm thick walls out of PLA plastic and several points for tensioning bars to try and keep vibrations minimal, I'm thinking of also coating the inside with sludge.

Have some pics!

Here's a quick 3D render, it's completely function over form and is designed to print nicely - which has quite a lot of restraints with overhangs.
Attached File  spiker.jpg   97.12KB   0 downloads
And the printer, a tevo tarantula i've been modifying and tweaking for the last 2 months
Attached File  print (2 of 2).jpg   564.13KB   0 downloads
And here's a little close up of the print, it's the middle section and is just a draft, so it's on maximum layer heights and max speed - it's still gonna take a total of 10 - 12 hours, the "nice version" is gonna be about a 24 hour print for this section! The flash is most unflattering to the glossy black plastic too.
Attached File  print (1 of 2).jpg   81.4KB   0 downloads

Let me know what you think :)
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#2 Simonh

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Posted 25 Aug 2017 - 17:22

Cool!


Doing it is not enough - it has to be done right.


#3 Patrick!

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Posted 25 Aug 2017 - 17:59

Awesome  :)



#4 R-P

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Posted 25 Aug 2017 - 23:43

Whoa...

 

Totally cool... I've been thinking what I can do with the companies I used to work with, one being the biggest user of carbon fiber in Holland, and another one being a company that can injection mould ceramics. Which is a bitch as it shrinks 50+% when curing it in the oven...

 

But with this 3D printing, I think we can just find better ways to achieve something similar


Edited by R-P, 25 Aug 2017 - 23:45.

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#5 El Bambino

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Posted 26 Aug 2017 - 08:09

That's the conclusion I came to rp, between an additive and a subtractive cnc, I should be able to automate all the diy projects that my poor health no longer lets me do.

If you've been on the fence about trying a 3d printer, get one, I've definitely had my my moneys worth of fun out of it and it's made loads of useful bits and kitsch decoration. And the plastic starts at only €10 a kilo in holland.
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#6 El Bambino

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Posted 26 Aug 2017 - 14:09

Part 1 of 3 looks pretty succesful!
Attached File  JPEG_20170826_150332.jpg   76.65KB   0 downloads
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#7 SQashqai

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Posted 26 Aug 2017 - 20:19

Great stuff. Any particular reason for choosing this printer? Was it easy to build etc?

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#8 Rug Doctor

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Posted 26 Aug 2017 - 20:34

Awesome ideas and it's coming on well. Nice cabinet design for completely cutting out edge diffraction..... they should image really well!!

 

I can't for the life of me understand why when you have the tools at your disposal have you decided to just build the outer case - surely with the 3D printer you could build a beautifully braced enclosure?! Yes your use a load more material,  but the internal bracing could all be triangular and so strong you could probably stand on it!



#9 El Bambino

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Posted 27 Aug 2017 - 07:36

Squashkai I went for the tevo tarantula as it was cheap, but very upgradeable, at under £200 it falls into the disposable toy category, however I'm probably close to double that now in parts and repairs and things. For a first 3d printer it's been a fantastic learning curve and produces plenty good prints, however I'm now eyeing up building my own sturdier and faster machine. If you want something that works great out of the box and doesn't cost that much more the cr10 is a great choice. Was my tevo easy to build? Hmmm, a tough one, whilst the original unmodified build presented few problems, it's still aa 10 hour job before you're printing, then you print all the brackets, buy replacements for the shit bits, break it all down and rebuild. I've probably sunk 50 hours just in building, rebuilding and maintenance, with fairly frequent swearing and pulling my hair out.

For sure the cabinet designs are going to get a LOT more complicated dr, complex curves have a lot less flex than flat panels. This was very much keeping it all as basic as possible as a proof of concept, I probably spent no more than 45 minutes on the 3d models. The braces that I'm printing separately should offer adequate damping for a 4" driver in a vented box.

Edited by El Bambino, 27 Aug 2017 - 07:39.

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#10 Haakon

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Posted 27 Aug 2017 - 09:08

Looking great!

 

3D printing opens up a new world for projects like these. The CR10 looks to be a good choice for a relatively inexpensive printer with large build volume. I have the Wanhao I3 v2 myself, this prints 20x20x18cm. 


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#11 Patrick!

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Posted 27 Aug 2017 - 10:49

Richard & I have an Ultimaker 2+ between us - been really useful for many things. Not made anything audio related yet.

#12 El Bambino

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Posted 27 Aug 2017 - 10:55

Part 2 fits nicely on the first go!

Unfortunately I had a bit of warping so it's not sitting flat, lesson learnt, always use a brim on large pieces.
And I also used a different brand of black filament, which is completely different and had a bit of an adhesion problem on the outermost layer which feels a bit stringy and weird.
Oh well, all that means is that this one has definitely been demoted to functional prototype, which gives me time to design something a little more funky and with support printed in place.
Attached File  IMG_20170827_115113.jpg   234.67KB   0 downloads
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#13 Haakon

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Posted 27 Aug 2017 - 12:21

Before I got my own printer, I had some help printing out these tweeter baffles I designed:
 
Using the cutout dimensions supplied by Sony I made a 2D vector file in adobe illustrator. I added some space to account for the cloth material I will be wrapping the a-pillars with. I then sent the file to a friend who made it into a 3D file ready for printing:

 
We adjusted this a bit, the bottom flange did not need to be as deep. Then I got a print ready file I sent to a more local friend with a 3D printer. In not much time at all he came up with a pair of these:

 


 
You can just see the 1mm gap around the tweeter to account for the thickness of the cloth:

 
Pressure fitment around the bottom, couldn't be happier about the accuracy here:

 
As you can see the finish on the top is a bit rough. This comes from not having the 3D printer quite dialed in/calibrated yet. I was told this would be the case, but I said it didn't matter for this project since they will be covered anyway. With the printer dialed in and resolution set to max you will get much smoother finish. I took a small test piece of the cloth I will use and as expected it covered up any roughness in the finish:


Installed in a-pillar:

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#14 El Bambino

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Posted 27 Aug 2017 - 12:31

They look great haakon!
I've just loved how quickly I can knock up little things like your mount, which would take a whole day in the wood shop and not be half as accurate.
Things that really made me go OOOOOOO have included; machine screws self tap beautifully in petg and pla, using a soldering iron to set in a nut/thread, clip fastenings that work well first time and using flex filament to make custom shaped grommets. I've also been surprised by how 95% of things I've tried to print have just worked great first time.
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#15 Patrick!

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Posted 28 Aug 2017 - 11:35

That is what has impressed me most so far, the accuracy.

 

This was a functional bracket I made for the Sportster's clutch:

 

IMG_4656-1024x768.jpg

 

This is printer with a lower detail setting (thicker layers, still with a 0.4mm nozel) in ColorFabb HT - so it's bloody strong. It's held up well so far with about 300 miles worth of gear changes on it.

 

More here:

http://www.msportste...ch-bracket-mk3/

 

I have a bunch of other stuff on thingiverse: https://www.thingive...rDriver/designs



#16 Fog Loom

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Posted 28 Aug 2017 - 17:09

I really need one of these. I've been thinking about making a few mods to the interior of the mx5 and a 3D printer would be great...

#17 El Bambino

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Posted 28 Aug 2017 - 17:57

If you have any questions, fire away foggy.
I've been completely absorbed by 3D printing for the last 3 months or so and accrued a shit ton of knowledge about what's currently good.
If you want something that works out of the box, the prusa i3 mk2 is pretty awesome, but nearly a grand
The wanhao duplicator is pretty decent out of the box.
The cr10 is fantastic with only 20 mins of construction needed.
then you have i3 clones and tevo's, which are more of a tinkering project for 50 hours or so before it prints things as well as one of the more expensive machines, also expect to dump at least 50% extra on top of the base price in replacing shit bits for these cheap kits if you want a reliable machine.

Here's my speaker all printed! have yet to do the bracing and I'm waiting on some hardware in the post for spikes and terminals.
Also have some epoxy resin and a small electric sander to try out pouring the epoxy over and sanding it back for a smooth finish.
Attached File  IMG_20170828_184914-1587x1190.jpg   95.12KB   0 downloads
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#18 Simonh

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Posted 29 Aug 2017 - 09:37

How would a high build primer take to that surface?

 

i feel sure I have seen 3D printed parts misted with either thinners or acetone to make the surface "flow" a bit and go shiny


How do they sound?


Doing it is not enough - it has to be done right.


#19 puggie

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Posted 29 Aug 2017 - 10:06

If you use ABS as your build filament you can then sit parts in an Acetone Vapour bath and it dissolves the surface of the print which is bonded layers, then the acetone evaporates out leaving a homogeneous top layer that has all blended together and is much stronger. There is a chemical that will do similar for PLA but from memory its quite nasty. PLA is much more brittle than ABS as a build material in my experience, but dimensionally much more stable (ABS tends to shrink by a few percent).


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#20 markwalker84

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Posted 29 Aug 2017 - 10:08

So tempted to give 3D printing a go.

 

Been looking at the Anet A8 / A6 jobbies you can get for ~£150 off of GearBest.

 

I know they are wobbly and take a load of fiddling, but I like the idea of that... printing off a load of parts to improve it and understanding how it works etc. Long term goal would be to design and build my own I think.

 

 

Just need a month without a wedding or a stag do or a birthday or an insurance renewal so I have a couple of spare £100's to play with...


Current build log

http://www.talkaudio...years-exciting/

 

Started as a £200 budget build in a 206

Pretty sure I've spent half of that just on a boot build now  :win: