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1967 Ford Mustang


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#1 Richard!

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Posted 06 Aug 2017 - 20:42

Its been a long time since I last posted on this forum.  Thought I'd share this.  I have recently purchased a 1967 Ford Mustang coupe.  

This is something i've been looking at getting for a long time, now the moment has come :)

 

The car was from Louisville Kentucky.  It was originally painted Wimbledon White with a black vinyl roof.  Around 2009 the car was restored.  It was repainted in Brittany blue and the engine rebuilt. 

The engine is a 289 v8 with a 3 speed automatic gearbox.

 

So far with the help of Patrick my brother, we have made a number of small fixes and upgrades.  

 

See more about those here: www.mustang67.co.uk

 

Todays tasks were indicator switch and new dampers all round. Drives so much better now.

 

The audio system is well err, not great.  Currently it has some horrid Kenwood head unit that doesn't suit the car at all.  Sadly the console was cut up to fit the modern head unit.  I plan to revert to a classic looking head unit with modern functions.

Speaker wise it has two 6x9 speakers on the rear shelf, the audio quality is so bad that I don't turn any music.  ( not that its audible at the moment since the car has a straight through exhaust :P )

I'll make a separate thread on the audio upgrade once I get started on that.

 

 

 

 

 

 


Edited by Richard!, 07 Aug 2017 - 07:22.

Mustang67 - Sportster - 328compact.co.uk


#2 Rug Doctor

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Posted 06 Aug 2017 - 21:05

Hi! Very glad you decided to post this up over here,  welcome back whether it be long term or short lived,  good to have you have you back nonetheless!!!



#3 Patrick!

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Posted 06 Aug 2017 - 21:42

I think I'm going slowly deaf from the exhaust at the moment  :lol:

 



#4 Rug Doctor

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Posted 06 Aug 2017 - 21:44

Yes that does need at least a single silencer!!



#5 Bass_Junkie83

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Posted 07 Aug 2017 - 07:38

Lovely car.  That would be my ideal project, one day....


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#6 drfeelgood

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Posted 07 Aug 2017 - 07:43

Yup - a 'proper' Mustang would definitely have a spot in my dream garage. Lovely car :)

I'm quite used to having liquids running off my chin :raz:


#7 Alistair

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Posted 07 Aug 2017 - 09:36

Thats a lovely looking car.  A friend of mine has had a number of Mustangs now, usually the earlier 1965/66 shape.


I'm gonner sound like a bummer here, but I quite enjoy the hole activty


Maybe the government should stop telling me to stop eating thick sliced white bread and tell people to stop smoking crack instead.


#8 Patrick!

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Posted 07 Aug 2017 - 09:37

Richard has exhaust parts ready to go on! Been waiting for a couple sleeves to join it to the old headers. New headers is something for next year! Silencers are from the Australian company Varex - electronic controlled flap lets you turn into a straight through type box like the magnaflows i have on the sportster (which I may change to Varex)

IMG_4620-2560x1920.jpg

IMG_4536-2560x1920.jpg

IMG_4544-2560x1920.jpg

Current 'silencers' :

IMG_4518-1024x768.jpg

Edited by Patrick!, 07 Aug 2017 - 09:38.


#9 frostbite

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Posted 07 Aug 2017 - 09:41

Beautiful car, reminds me of the days playing driver on the playstation

I like the shape of the 2+2 fastback myself but the coupe is nice

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Prostitutes, drug-addicts, mercenaries, killers and psychopaths of any nationalities compose the population of Roanapur.

 

 


#10 Rug Doctor

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Posted 07 Aug 2017 - 10:00

I have always wanted one of these and might be able to get one soon as I'll have the garage space in the next house :)

 

So,  I would want to do a full on SQ system in it - what do you reckon on the space available?  Would be midbass in kicks,  with probably horns and lots and lots of amps.  How does the kick area look to you for big fibreglass builds and is the dash reasonably flat underneath for horns?  Oh and twin 15" subs IB?? :clown:

 

The only problem I have to overcome is my 6yo daughter - she won't let me sell the Porker! Haha 



#11 drfeelgood

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Posted 07 Aug 2017 - 10:09

The kicks MUST be huge, surely? I'm thinking 8" DC drivers with at least a 12" sub up front....


Left hand drive auto is always a winner for kicks :)


I'm quite used to having liquids running off my chin :raz:


#12 Chas is back!

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Posted 07 Aug 2017 - 16:36

That is awesome!  I am not at all that jealous!

I almost bought one over my M3 as a daily!  But the logistics of dailying went out of the window ; not the unreliability which I reckon could be sorted but the fear of it rotting out over the winter months!

It's a similar spec to what I was looking to buy as well.  It looks in great shape.  Enjoy.  The Varex exhausts are a very neat solution indeed to having your cake and eating it.

Have you made that exhaust system yourself by buying the parts like the pipes, the X-Pipe etc and then made it to shape?  Fair play!


Edited by Chas is back!, 07 Aug 2017 - 16:48.

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#13 Richard!

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Posted 07 Aug 2017 - 17:52

The exhaust is made up of parts bought from Summit Racing in the states.  The x-pipe & over axel tubes are specifically for the Mustang.  We did some calculations on what it would take to make our own solution but ultimately the price was higher and would be a lot more work.  ( There's still plenty to do :P )

 

I'll be keeping the car in the garage and try to avoid using in rain / salty roads.  Hopefully that will help maintain the condition of the car.

 

Speaker wise not sure exactly what is going to go in yet.  On the driver side need to look out for the headlight high/low beam switch which is on the floor near the kick panel ( very odd not having that on a stalk ). Also the manual washer pump lever is right there as well.  There sure is a lot of space around the car for auto install!


Mustang67 - Sportster - 328compact.co.uk


#14 Richard!

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Posted 24 Aug 2017 - 11:48

Exhaust Upgrade
The car came with a straight through exhaust and some small silencers.It sounded fantastic, loud & exciting.However after driving for 30 minutes it wasn’t good on the ears.I drove with ear plugs pretty all the time.Not sure all of my neighbours were particularly happy when I occasionally left early or arrived late :D.
So the plan was to change to a Varex exhaust to get the best of both. Loud for fun, quite for longer drives and early starting.Check out the sound comparison video at the end of this post.
See more pictures here: http://www.mustang67.co.uk/exhaust-upgrade/

Old exhaust removal
The exhaust was welded front to back, that made it a bit of a challenge to remove.We salvaged the old exhaust mounts for potential re-use.Also had an inspection from one of my parents cats ( Lex ) He’s a house cat, however broke out to make sure things were being done correctly :)





Headers & Downpipes
For now I’m going to re-use the original headers and downpipes.In the future may upgrade these.Removing the downpipes was quite a challenge, the nuts were firmly rusted in place.It required heating the nuts to red hot and quickly cooling them to break them loose.
The X-pipe was held up and sleeves tacked onto the header pipes.Once removed the sleeves were shaped and welded on.I’m not going to win any welding awards, but should do the job at least. Downpipes were given a coat of zinc paint to help protect them from corrosion as they are mid steel.




Silencer installation, simple hole for each one.



Tail Pipes V1
The rear pipes did not line up with the rear of the car, they also did not go around the tank.So to fix this the over axel pipes were cut and a sleeve added to allow rotation.The last bend that goes around the tank was adjusted by cutting a wedge out and re-welding.This worked really well for getting the pipes in to the correct location.When the car was lowered the spacing between the axel and the exhaust was checked unfortunately there was only 1cm space on the drivers side to the differential.On the passenger side there was 16cm.The gap to the bump stops is around 20cm.As much as I’d have loved to just get on a drive at that stage I had to leave it and make modifications.




Tail Pipes V2
To increase the spacing the over axel pipes needed to be made vertical.This moved them away from the differential.To get the tail pipes to fit after this change the section from the rear of the over axel bends to the tail pipe needed to be modified.The drop on the rear over axel section was shortened. The straight section then had to lengthened and rotated to fit.Everything was tacked up into place then removed properly welded and re-installed.This was done to both sides.The passenger side might have been ok under most conditions however I felt much happier re-doing that one too.Now I don’t need to worry about it anymore.




With all of the changes there is plenty of clearance now.




All done, big thank you to my family for all the help with getting this project done. Wouldn’t have been possible without all of the help.


The sound
The below video show a comparison between original / new – open / new – closed.The actual dB is probably different ( not exactly scientific ), however it shows a relative difference.The phone was placed at a 45 degree angle 50cm away from the exhaust tip.

Edited by Richard!, 24 Aug 2017 - 11:52.

Mustang67 - Sportster - 328compact.co.uk


#15 Rug Doctor

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Posted 24 Aug 2017 - 21:06

Such a nice sound. 

 

Good work there, I'm jealous as. 



#16 EddyP

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Posted 30 Aug 2017 - 19:45

Very tidy!

 

Funnily enough I've been keeping a vague eye on these too recently.



#17 LockUpYourMums

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Posted 31 Aug 2017 - 17:46

Loving the varex exhaust, shame I no longer have a yank and am unlikely to be able to afford one  again. 


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#18 Richard!

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Posted 02 Sep 2017 - 08:09

Overflow tank

The kit came with rivets to install the brackets, however the side of the radiator has convenient holes for mounting with bolts.A new radiator cap was needed to allow any coolant that ends up in the overflow tank to be drawn back into the system as the engine cools.

Quick simple upgrade, no more coolant overflow :)

http://www.mustang67.co.uk/overflow-tank/


Edited by Richard!, 02 Sep 2017 - 08:15.

Mustang67 - Sportster - 328compact.co.uk


#19 Richard!

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Posted 03 Sep 2017 - 16:29

A little catch up on a few things that have happened of late.

Filler cap
New filler cap, the old one was looking a bit tired.



Steering wheel emblem
Thought it would be an easy one, ‘just’ replace the steering wheel emblem.The old one was almost impossible to remove.Ended up drilling a hole through it and using some wood as a puller.


Tail lights
More photos here: http://www.mustang67.co.uk/tail-lights/
The original lights were quite dim and it was hard to tell when the brakes were applied. This was a particularly problem on bright days. I’d like to keep the car as original looking as possible, so a third brake light is not an option. The new lights are far brighter and its much clearer when the brakes are applied. Hopefully it will give other motorist enough warning when i’m slowing down.

The lens housings were cleaned up and repainted. They were looking quite sorry for themselves.

Thank you to Patrick for installing these and doing all that work to restore the lenses :)





Natural safety switch
More photos here: http://www.mustang67.co.uk/natural-safety-switch/
Since I got the car it kept blowing a fuse. It was intermittent with no particular pattern. I kept putting in fuses with larger and larger ratings. In hindsight not the wisest course of action. Got to 30 amps and it stopped blowing. So I assumed all was well.

While looking at something else my Dad noticed that a wire was touching the exhaust. Turns out this was the wire that goes to the transmission neutral safety & reverse light switch. So fixed the wire, tied it back properly, and thought all was well. Unfortunately that was not the case. The reverse lights were not working anymore (presumably for some time).


The neutral safety switch was broken, at least the reverse switch part of it. The switch was being shorted out each time the car was put in reverse. With the larger and larger fuses more power was going through which ended up melting the plastic inside the switch. Buying a replacement from the UK costs more than ordering from the US even when the tax and shipping is more than cost of the part :/So for now will repair the existing switch. The unit was removed from the car, opened and repaired. Had to drill out the tabs that held it together as its not really supposed to be serviced. The contacts needed some solder on top to raise them back up to the correct level. After cleaning up the slider arm to remove the melted plastic. The part that holds the reverse switch roller needed new plastic adding to replace what had been melted away. With all fixed it was greased and glued back together. It clipped together quite firmly with a little glue it should hold fine. Woo! reverse light working again, no more blown fuses.

Mustang67 - Sportster - 328compact.co.uk


#20 Rug Doctor

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Posted 03 Sep 2017 - 16:59

:wow: better to never think you know best with old car electrics by chucking another fuse in - there's always a cause!!!


I had a very similar thing on the Porker - when the rear lights were originally installed one of the cables was trapped between the body and the light bucket - it only took nearly 40 years for it to run through the insulation and then cause one hell of a mother fucker to find!!!

 

That was the reversing light wire too...!