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VW Polo 6n2 - New Install

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#1 perryperry


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Posted 06 Nov 2013 - 22:24

I started a thread a few months back but never got round to a decent write up so here it is! There is a link to the old thread here: http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/ipb/index.php/topic/369468-vw-polo-6n2-build/


The car: VW Polo Match (6n2), 2001 registration

Equipment: JVC headunit, Genesis 2ch sm60 amplifier, Infinity basslink active sub woofer, Vieta component speaker set with passive crossovers


(please excuse the state of the car in some of the pictures, i started this install before i had given the car a major clean-up!)


The first step was to get some power from the battery to the boot. I chose to take a positive power feed from the nut and bolt holding the factory power distribution bar in place.




I made a short jump cable to run from the positive battery terminal to the fuse holder. A ring terminal was crimped onto the end of the cable, the cable was then soldered in place for a secure connection to the ring terminal and heat shrink placed over the ring terminal for protection.




After deciding where to place the fuse holder i cut one of the mounting lugs off as it wasn't needed




The jump cable was then cut to length and terminated into one of the fuse caps, again heat shrink was used for protection.




This cable assembly was then placed onto the car with the fuse holder and the fuse holder was secured to the coolant bottle bracket.






I then terminated the positive power cable to the other fuse cap and ran the cable across the bulk head along with the brake pipes. The positive power cable runs through the bulkhead and enters the cabin above the brake pedal, this cable runs through a spare grommet next to the clutch cable (ignore the horrible blue cable tie, this was temporary until i bought some more black ones!)




After running the power cable across the bulk head I pulled it back out again so i could wrap it in loom tape to make it look like a factory cable




The fuse cap was then re-terminated and placed back into the fuse holder





With the power cable now in the cabin I removed the plastic kick trim and rolled back the carpet. The positive power cable was then run from the entry point on the bulkhead to the edge of the floor pan, this allowed it to be run in the factory cable channels that run from the a pillar to the b pillar. The rear seats were removed and the cable run from the b pillar behind the rear door card and into the wheel well inside the boot.



#2 naj


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Posted 07 Nov 2013 - 10:24

Nice attention to detail :) Looking good

E46 Coupe

Build in progress

#3 perryperry


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Posted 07 Nov 2013 - 19:53

Nice attention to detail :) Looking good


Thanks, i shall be posting more pictures in the next few days.

#4 perryperry


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Posted 08 Nov 2013 - 01:54

Following from yesterdays post (some of this was completed a few back just haven't posted)


Once the power cable was sitting in the boot I terminated it into the distribution block. I mounted this to the polystyrene block that sits behind the boot sidewall carpet, i may move this to under the boot floor in the future as i am unsure whether it was the best place to put it. (Just noticed the power cable has 'ground cable' written on the outer sheathing, oh well cable is cable!)




The next task was to install the new JVC head unit, this took longer than expected as i couldn't get it to sit nicely without pinching the cables.


A picture of the head unit, it is by no means a competition or high end head unit but it performs well, has lots of features, matches the factory lighting colors and looks nice within the car dashboard




After removing the VW radio and cd units i was left with the ISO power connector, ISO speaker connector and aerial feed. As this new head unit is single din i will buy the optional accessories try from VW, this fits in the lower din slot. 


I started to route the audio cables to the din housing, I did not take parts of the dash apart to run any cabling from the head unit as i like to keep the car together so it is usable.


One audio cable in: 




Once the second cable was in place i ran the remote turn on cable




As i was not using the speaker outputs to power the drivers and only using the signal to convert to line level rather than soldering into the factory harness I plugged a separate ISO connector into the head unit loom, leaving the factory ISO connector sat behind the dash. This connector had fly leads wired into it which i routed under the glove box to allow me to make use of the outputs when i needed.


I then bundled the cables up neatly as they weren't going to be run to the boot for a few days.





Not related to car audio but i degreased and dressed the engine bay one afternoon as i was sick of the dirt!


started by soaking the bay in degreaser followed by an all purpose cleaner:





Once that was all washed off i applied a plastic dressing and allowed it to dry, resulting in this:




You can now see how the fuse holder sits:


(forgot to mention yesterday, the main fuse is rated at 40A as the amp and sub consume a max of 20A each)




Back to audio, the head unit loom was then plugged into the ISO connectors to check the unit power up and all was well. When i pushed the head unit back into the housing there was excessive resistance from the cables as they were all bunching up, i did not want to damage any cables and the head unit would not sit flush so i removed it for the time being.


I managed to resolve the issue and the head unit now slides in and out of the housing effortlessly: the issue was that the ISO block was sat behind the head unit which meant that as soon as it was pushed back the cables bunched together and couldnt move. to fix this problem i removed the head unit loom and lengthened the whole loom. After a few hours cutting and soldering i placed the loom back into the car.


By extending the head unit loom it allowed the ISO block to sit tucked into a gap at the side of the din slot as the loom was long enough to reach the head unit a simple fix but i do not have any photos of this.

#5 perryperry


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Posted 13 Nov 2013 - 22:21

Some new ideas surfaced....iPod touch installed in the car as a media player?


When i extended the head unit loom i took a spur off the switched live and ground to power a music source if i needed to, i plan to now use this spur to power the iPod touch when the ignition is on/when engine is running. As the iPod requires 5v to power it i bought a USB car charger, removed the internal circuit board and soldered power cables onto the correct pins. The circuit provides 5v through a USB socket that an apple cable can plug into.


So i planned to install the iPod touch in the spare din space below the head unit and make a face plate so it looks factory (some photos and more info on that later) but there was an issue: the 30 pin dock cable sits nearly flush with the screen meanly that a face plate over it would need to be very very thin and using the headphone jack for audio output meant quality would be reduced. So to fix the issues i came up with the following:




i bought a basic iPod dock and stripped out the internals. The 30 pin connector on the circuit board is much slimmer and when plugged into the iPod will allow a face plate to fit over it and this circuit board provides a 3.5mm output jack and it is a line level signal taken before the headphone amplifier meaning that it should provide a good quality signal! All i had to do was plug the correct cables into it and it would solve the above issues!




You can see here that the USB plug would plug into the USB socket of the 5v circuit board, providing the iPod with the 5v power it requires. The 3.5mm jack would plug into the aux input on the JVC head unit.


These pictures were before extending the head unit loom, they show the interior and the current state of the wiring and head unit in position.






So onto the second stage of the wiring:


The cables for the rear speakers were soldered onto the iso speaker harness (i had plans to use rear speakers to provide 'background fill'). Of course the cables were labeled for left/right and all connections had heat shrink applied.




I then ran the remote turn on feed, rear speaker cables and the 2 stereo pairs of rca cables. Running cables in a VW is a dream: just peel back the passenger carpet, pop off the kick trim and there is a factory cable channel complete with clips and extra space!




Once the cables were out of the cable channel it left them at the side of the rear seat, i then ran them under the seat back and into the passenger side rear arch well behind the sidewall carpet.





The cables were then dropped over the sidewall carpet as the plan was to place the amp here, however that plan quickly changed but i left the cables there as it kept them neat and tidy until i next had time to do anything




As a side note i also received my new VW flick key from the later VWs. I plan to get the blade cut and fit the transponder from my key to go from this:




To this:




So thats where it all stands as of now, i will update further when time allows!

#6 perryperry


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Posted 20 Nov 2013 - 21:53

Time for an update!


took a picture to show how the head unit sits in the dash, i think it suits the polo interior.





When fitting the head unit I ran an iPhone cable to the drivers side cubby hole. This provides power and sends audio to the head unit rear aux, this is only temporary until i mount the iPod touch in the spare din space.




It was then time to replace the speakers and get the newly run speaker cable into the doors.


I started by stripping the dash above both footwells to access the door harness plugs and removing the door cards and old speakers





To run the speaker cables through the door harness plug i drilled a hole through the some spare pin spaces then pushed the cable through the rubber boot.





Once the cable was in the door i wired in the crossover, connected the speaker and screwed it into place. i then installed the tweeter behind the factory cover. The same process was repeated on the passenger side.





Having now looked at more threads on this site i have realised that i made some mistakes when fitting these speakers and i feel i could do a much better job, so when time allows i plan to remove the speakers, make mdf rings rather than using the plastic factory ones and securely mount the rings to the door skins. Doing this should improve the performance of the speakers. I also plan to upgrade the speaker cable as i now have some higher quality cable and would also like to mount the crossover differently as I feel I rushed at this part. 

Another plan is to cut the tweeter covers, mount the tweeters in the best position for SQ then fibre glass the covers and cover them in alcantara.


As the amp had so many possible locations and i couldnt decide between them I decided to make the sub woofer ground cable as i knew how long this needed to be.


The ring terminal will go over the bolt that will go into the floor plan and the fork will go into the sub woofer amp. I have used a fork so i can easily disconnect the sub amp when the sub needs to come out. The connections are covered in heat shrink for protection and the ring terminal end of the cable is wrapped in loom tape for 20cm to avoid the spare wheel from rubbing on the outer sheath of the cable.



#7 perryperry


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Posted 02 Dec 2013 - 21:57

I now have sound in the car and will update soon but i could do with some guidance regarding tuning. I know it is a huge subject to ask about but what should i be doing to 'tune' the audio system? how should i go about it? what are the results to reach for when tuning? any suggestions would be appreciated. 

Edited by perryperry, 02 Dec 2013 - 21:58.